Most of you probably know that Steve is a dog whisperer. He loves animals and I have never met a dog who did not love Steve. Yesterday was Do Dah Day on our beloved Highland Avenue - a day set apart to honor canines and their caregivers. We opened our window to take in the barks and howls. This reminded me of Steve's musings that he has written but never shared about our neighborhood.....
Highland Avenue
This Avenue, like a river
Never changing, never the same.
The tide carries its cargo up and down,
Back and forth,
Each in his own vessel.
All manner of people amble along its banks.
Some shrouded in prosperity,
Others washed up on the shore.
I have walked, paced, run along this waterless river
And watched the currents of its tributaries.
Countless hours
Lonely full moon midnights
Dark to New Day sunrises
Companionable Vespers
Scorching heat
Bitter Cold
Soaking Rain
Enlivening breezes
This river is my home.
Steve has written four chapters of something he entitled "Walks On Highland."
Here is Chapter One:
“Writing is a treason of sorts. Even a cold recitation of facts is never the thing itself. The events described are somehow diminished in the telling.” Anthony Bourdain
Where my favorite book lets off, well, that’s where this story begins. David Copperfield, scratching away late in the night, recording his memories by dim candlelight, pauses to gaze at the woman who sleeps so peacefully on an arms length away. He hears her gentle breathing and is moved to hope that after years of sorrow, he may now pass the remainder of his days in her love…the love he finally found. “The dear presence without which I were nothing bears me company.”
Sigh.
I’m no David Copperfield (I mean Charles Dickens). He has a quill, I have a Mac. But I have felt the full force of that final page, both in longing and now in fulfillment. And I’m sitting across the table from my “her”, at the end of a summer excursion, in a coffee shop in the Berkshires (which has nothing to do with this story except that it happens to be where we are right now). She is lost in the reverie of books and artists and the end of summer- and I doubt she even sees the way I am looking at her while she makes notes with her pencil (she loves pencils).
I’m a man- an almost 50 man. And I can do manly things. I have tools and like motorcycles, and beer, and black coffee, and cars. I only make this insecure protest because in a minute or two she will look up from her book, and her gaze will meet mine, and I will melt like wax.
If I wrote a history of Birmingham, it would go something like this: To help you get your bearings, my neighborhood, Highland Park, sits above the city on the northern side of Red Mountain. (It’s the north side, but called the Southside, but don’t worry about that.) Highland Avenue is the heartbeat of it all.
Birmingham is a young city as far as that goes (circa 1870ish). You can stand atop Red Mountain and picture somebody looking out over the Jones Valley and saying, “Hey, Someone should put a city here.” There’s more to it I’m sure. That same someone looked down at their feet and said, “My word! Here are all the three elements necessary for making steel.” Next thing you know, you’ve got the “Magic City”.
Around 1900, a group of people got together and realized that steel mills don’t smell very good. They began to build a very lovely neighborhood up above the smoke and din of the valley floor. This is Highland Park.
The barons of steel and industry build homes on the crest of Red Mountain (Redmont), and eventually slid down the backside into what became Mountain Brook. This is still one of the wealthier communities in the country- a collection of villages named Mountain Brook, Crestline, and English Village, which are separated from the city by the mountain. The migration of industry leaders and their wallets (1920’s) to Mountain Brook began a full scale southward sprawl that eventually created “Over the Mountain” Birmingham, and which slowly drained “Birmingham, City of….” This story was played out all over the US, so it’s not unusual really: A thriving city-center that falters in depressions and recessions, turns icky, and those who can leave. Those who can’t, stay.
(The Sixties and Seventies were especially bleak, when it literally became city policy that whites would move and blacks would stay. I’m writing this digression because I think of Highland Park as an almost idyllic place to be, but is has shared it’s city’s history (glories and deprivations), and no one ought to forget that.)
The Avenue, Highland Avenue, flows like a river, meandering around three parks. Those parks are named for several of the original “someone’s” who conceived of the city and then made a lot of money from it- Caldwell, Rhodes, and Rushton. It is anchored on one end by an area called Five Points South. This is the commercial, club, restaurant, bar, young, hip, crazy urban spot…the only 24/7 part of Birmingham. The other end is about a mile and a half to the east at the Highland Golf Club, the city’s first public course. They say (and by “they” I mean I heard this somewhere) that Highland Park (two to three square miles around the Avenue) is the most densely populated part of the State. Some 5000 people live here. That’s no New York City, or even Atlanta, but by Alabama standards it’s pretty dang urban.
The streets are lined, for the most part, with the houses that were built in the teens and twenties. They very in size and style, from stately houses built by the industry barons, to the big houses built by their lieutenants and merchants, to small bungalows built by…people who build bungalows. Interspersed along the way are a number of classy brick walk-ups.
Still, each decade has left some mark on the original intent of the neighborhood. Along the way, many of the homes were broken up into boarding houses and apartments and offices. Oh, and the seventies were not kind. Old houses came down. Mod Squad apartments went up. Families fled, although many of the stalwart neighbors stayed. During the seventies and eighties you could have probably picked up an old house for a handful of pocket change. “Hmmm, Starbucks or a 4/3 Tudor?”
When it dawned on a significant percentage of the national consciousness that suburbs were really boring and sucked the soul out of you while you slept, neighborhoods like Highland Park got a boost. The city enlisted a noted architect to redesign the landscape along the Avenue. She did it with an eye toward honoring the style of the place- red brick planters and crepe myrtles along the median, and wide sidewalks on both sides that make Highland a happy place to walk, run and live.
I’m just finishing a grilled cheese sandwich at my favorite downtown coffee haunt, Urban Standard. “A grilled cheese”, you say? “Yes!”, I say. It ain’t no ordinary sandwich- three kinds of cheese, a lot of butter, and you get to dip it in a raspberry reduction (whatever that means) sauce. Mercy!
I’m thinking about food because I just met Dan from New York who moved here to be a food editor for a now defunct magazine. He is freelancing and is probably hungry, so I gave him a half of a sandwich. (I didn’t give him half of the reduction sauce. That’s mine.) He likes Birmingham and lives close to my street so he can walk to the Continental Bakery. When a New Yorker gives the thumbs up to your neighborhood, it gives you a little lift in the self-esteem.
My father was a Navy man, and growing up it seems that I changed schools and houses as often as I changed my shirt. So it has struck me that now, after five decades, I feel at home, as if I belong to this place and that it belongs to me.
When I first moved here and told people I was going to live and work on the Southside (downtown), I constantly heard my soon to be neighbors referred to as “those people.” I took offense as if someone was insulting my mother. “Love your neighbor,” Jesus said. I’m not trying to improve on that. I just wonder if he didn’t mean “love your neighborhood”- the people, the place, the buildings, the dirt, the trees- all of it and everyone. Sink roots, share its fate and let your story melt into its history.